By Train from Győr to Budapest, Circling Lake Balaton: A Scenic Hungarian Adventure
Győr to Budapest via Lake Balaton
My first trip to Lake Balaton was a continuation of my journey on the panoramic train from Graz to Vienna. I had been planning a trip to the largest lake in Central Europe for a long time, but only now did I have a great opportunity. From Vienna it's not that far, so hurray to the Hungarian sea. I decided not to take the Railjet, but to use the EuroCity connection. Firstly, I was afraid that the Railjet would be full, and secondly, I'm only going to Győr. Another option was to go all the way to Budapest and go around the lake from the other side. The time is quite similar, but in the end I chose the option with a transfer in Győr and continuing on to Keszthely.
Even in Vienna, it can happen that the train is already delayed when leaving the starting station. Whether it was due to the turnaround from Budapest, or for another reason, I didn't even investigate. The delay gradually increased from 10 minutes to half an hour, but even so, I should have enough time to transfer in Győr.
Győr - a spa town with a station where time has stopped
After an hour's drive and half an hour late, I get off at the gray station in Győr. I move to the station hall and have the same feeling as about 12 years ago when I first arrived at Budapest Keleti station. Filled with a nostalgic atmosphere and older equipment, this station was a wonderful contrast to modern Vienna. I was interrupted from my wandering around the station by the sound of the "Pragotron", the characteristic clicking melody of the information on the departure and arrival boards that was just changing. A proper station buffet would be nice here, but the only facility is a small shop and a tobacconist.
Direction Keszthely: Journey to the Shores of Lake Balaton
It's after eleven o'clock and I'm heading to the lake. I didn't manage to have lunch in Győr (there was nowhere and little time for a trip to the city) and I have a journey of more than two and a half hours ahead of me. I'm starting to regret a little that I didn't go through Budapest on the Railjet, which has a dining car.
During the journey, I process the video from Graz and I am only interrupted from work when we stop at one of the 14 stops that we pass on the way to the lake.
Lunch at Lake Balaton: A Moment of Rest
Keszthely station, a short distance from the shore of Lake Balaton, is much friendlier than in Győr. Next to the renovated building there is a refreshment stand and a bus station. The way to the lake leads along the station across the railway crossing and further along the "promenade" surrounded by shops and restaurants. It's the first half of June, so there are a few people here and the restaurants are half empty. A pier appears by the lake and I choose from restaurants where I will have a small lunch and rest a bit. I have the next train planned in more than an hour, so there's no rush.
Which car to choose? Comparison of classes in IC train
After lunch, I head back to the station, from where I will continue to Fonyód. The IC connection leaves directly from Keszthely and the train was already at the station when I arrived from Győr. The first behind the locomotive is a first class carriage and then second class carriages. The difference between first and second class is really big here. Second-class carriages do not have air conditioning or even sockets, but they do have pull-down windows. The first class carriage is modernized, with two compartments for 6 people and a large space. At the end there is a small bistro section. The first class carriage has Wifi, sockets and air conditioning. I'm only going for a while, so I'm settling in first class. A second-class ticket costs HUF 650 (approx. CZK 41) and a first-class ticket HUF 1465 (i.e. approximately CZK 93).
Fonyód's Coastal Delights: Pilsner Beer and Hungarian Lángos
After a 30-minute journey along the coast of Lake Balaton, I get off at the small Fonyód station and head through the underpass to the port and the long pier. There are restaurants and bars on the coast and I will go to one right away. Among the signs with Soproni beer, I see the familiar logo of Pilsner beer and it's decided. It doesn't taste great, but together with lángos it's a great snack (my stomach will thank me later).
Siófok before the season: The magic of a place without crowds of tourists
The wind starts to pick up and the sky is overcast. The weather radar shows a big storm approaching. I am looking for the nearest train departure to Siófok. There is a choice between a passenger train and a delayed IC. The arrival time should be similar. I take the IC again and this time in second class. The train is completely full and it started to rain immediately after departure. It should be, it's Sunday and the train ends in Budapest. More and more people get on at the next stations. We pass through bands of rain and sunshine all the way to Siófok, where I end for today. It has stopped raining here and I am heading towards the water, where I plan to stay. These places have their own special charm before the main season and I prefer them this way than crowded with tourists. Everything is being prepared here, but there are still no crowds of people flowing around the food and drink stalls. But the Ferris wheel by the water is spinning and there are even a few customers in it.
Morning journey from Siófok to Budapest: Last minutes at Lake Balaton
The last day on the way around Lake Balaton. I walk around the Siofok station, where there is a beautiful park and the station building itself. The station includes a nice station buffet (Lokomotiv Bistro), which I unfortunately didn't have time to try. So maybe next time. I'm coming to Budapest IC, where my journey through Hungary ends. As in previous cases, second-class carriages without air conditioning, WiFi and sockets and one first-class carriage. On Monday morning, the train is no longer so full and the journey time to Budapest is less than an hour and a half.
In Budapest, the train ends at the Budapest – Déli station, which is definitely not one of the most beautiful in the city. I transfer by metro, which is located directly at the station, to Keleti station and then to Nyugati, from where there is a direct train to the Czech Republic.
By train to Lake Balaton from the Czech Republic?
Yes, this is also an option that may make sense to some. From the Czech Republic (Prague, Brno, Ostrava) there are direct connections to Budapest - both day and night. If you choose, for example, a night connection from Prague, you are in Budapest around 9 o'clock in the morning and in less than two hours you can arrive on the shores of Lake Balaton.
Czech Rail Guide
